Winery gains reputation for rare French varietal

By DAVE WILKINS
Capital Press

California Chardonnay. Oregon Pinot Noir. Idaho Viognier?

When people think about Idaho, it's usually not about wine, let alone a rare French varietal.

If Idaho has a reputation for any particular winegrape, it's probably Riesling. But that could change, according to some wine entrepreneurs in the state.

Cinder Winery of Garden City, Idaho, was recently recognized as one of top 10 hot small brands of 2009 by Wine Business Monthly. Its 2008 Viognier (pronounced vee-on-yay) was one of the main reasons for inclusion on the list of up-and-coming wineries.

"Cinder's 2008 Viognier made our list due to the quality of the wine, coupled with the vigilance in the exploration of different grape varietals that will grow best in Idaho," magazine editor Cyril Penn, said in a press release.

Owners Joe Schnerr and Melanie Krause have been exploring different grapes since starting Cinder Winery near Boise in 2006.

The husband-and-wife team -- Schnerr is the marketer, Krause is the winemaker -- don't have a vineyard. They purchase grapes from about eight different vineyards in the Snake River Region in Western Idaho and Eastern Oregon.

Viognier is one of six wines produced by Cinder Winery.

"We're doing a lot of exploration about what's going to grow really well here," Krause said in a press release. "The two varieties I'm most excited about are Viognier and Tempranillo."

Viognier is a white grape originating from the Rhone Valley of France. Cinder Winery produced about 320 cases of the variety in 2008.

Viognier has a reputation as a difficult grape to grow, but it seems to do well in Idaho, Schnerr said.

"It likes our cool nights," he said. "It just seems to be well suited to the climate of the Snake River Valley."

According to experts, Viognier grapes produce an aromatic wine that some find reminiscent of peaches, apricots and other fruit flavors.

Schnerr expects the variety to gain in popularity among Idaho winemakers.

"I definitely think you will see more and more Viogniers from the region getting accolades," he said.

Gary Cunningham, owner of 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards, a certified organic operation near Eagle, Idaho, also foresees good things for Viognier wines in the state.

Cunningham started with 2 acres of Viognier grapes in 2003 and he's up to about 4.5 acres this year. His 2008 estate Viognier won a double gold metal, including best of show, at the Treasure Valley wine competition in Idaho last year.

"All of the varietals from France seem to do very well out here," Cunningham said.

The Snake River Valley became Idaho's first officially recognized winegrape growing region in 2007 with its own American Viticulture Area designation. The region encompasses about 8,000 square miles with about 1,600 vineyards planted in 2009.

For more information about Idaho wines, visit www.idahowines.org